Water resistant, wear resistant, and decorative cosmetic for hair

ABSTRACT

The invention refers to a cosmetic product for hairs and decorative cosmetic with particular water resistance and wear (transfer) resistance. The product comprises stabile mixture of a water-emulsifiable, film-forming agent; a rheology modifier; a pigment; a volatile organic solvent; an oil soluble polymeric film-former; a silicon resin; and a filler.

RELATED APPLICATIONS

[0001] This application is a continuation of U.S. patent applicationSer. No. 09/965,578, filed Sep. 27, 2001, which issued as U.S. Pat. No.6,524,565 on Feb. 25, 2003, which claims priority to German PatentApplication No. 101 368 83.6, filed Jul. 24, 2001.

BACKGROUND

[0002] The present invention relates to a cosmetic product for hair,such as eyelash hair and eyebrow hair and decorative cosmetic withparticular water resistance and wear (transfer) resistance.

[0003] From U.S. Pat. No. 5,925,337 a waterproof mascara composition isknown which contains 2-40% by weight of a wax, 5-15% by weight of athickening agent, 35-50% by weight of a volatile organic solvent and1-35% by weight of a water-soluble film-forming agent, wherein thelast-named agent may e.g. also be an acrylate polymer. The compositiondoes not contain any emulsifier.

SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION

[0004] One embodiment of the present invention includes awater-resistant cosmetic gel. The gel comprises a stable mixture,comprising a water-emulsifiable, film-forming agent selected from one ormore of an acrylate copolymer or acrylic or methacrylic acid or an esterthereof, a water-immiscible aliphatic hydrocarbon solvent, a non-ionicemulsifier and water; a cosmetic wax; a rheology modifier; a pigmentphase; a volatile organic solvent; an oil soluble polymeric film-former;a silicon resin and a filler. The pigment comprises one or more ofmineral pigments, organic pigments, pearl pigments, surface-coatedpigments and mixtures thereof.

[0005] Another embodiment of the present invention includes a cosmeticgel. The cosmetic gel comprises a stable mixture comprising ethylacrylate and methyl methacrylate in a concentration of about 24.5% byweight of the gel and isododecane in a concentration of about 50% byweight of the gel.

[0006] Another embodiment of the present invention includes an eyebrowcolor cosmetic. The eyebrow color cosmetic comprises a mixturecomprising Carnauba wax, beeswax, castor wax, microcrystalline wax andPVP/Eicosane copolymer. The eyebrow color cosmetic also includes apigment in a concentration of about 6% of the cosmetic. Otheringredients include trimethylsiloxysilicate anddecamethylcyclopentasiloxane and the gel of the present invention.

[0007] One other embodiment of the present invention includes a methodfor imparting elasticity and softness to a cosmetic. The methodcomprises providing a film-forming agent comprising an acrylatecopolymer or acrylate derivative and a non-ionic emulsifier to form amixture. The method also includes heating the mixture to a temperaturef45 to 50 degrees Centigrade to form an emulsion. The method furtherincludes mixing the emulsion with a volatile aliphatic hydrocarbonsolvent or a volatile silicone derivate and homogenizing to form atwo-phase liquid system. The method further includes cooling thetwo-phase liquid system with rapid mixing to form a homogeneous gel andmixing the gel with a cosmetic formulation to soften and increaseelasticity of the cosmetic formulation.

DETAILED DESCRIPTION

[0008] The present invention provides a new cosmetic product for hairand a decorative cosmetic which, due to its special structure, issuitable for forming a soft and elastic product with waterproofcharacteristics and improved prolonged wear.

[0009] According to the invention, the cosmetic product for hair anddecorative cosmetic which comprises

[0010] 1-45% by weight of a stable mixture of a water-emulsifiable,film-forming agent on the basis of an acrylate copolymer or of acrylicor methacrylic acid or an ester thereof, a water-immiscible aliphatichydrocarbon solvent, a non-ionic emulsifier and water;

[0011] 1-45% by weight of a cosmetic wax;

[0012] 0.1-10% by weight of a rheology modifier;

[0013] 0.1-30% by weight of a pigment phase, comprising mineralpigments, organic pigments, pearl pigments, surface-coated pigments andmixtures thereof;

[0014] 51-90% by weight of a volatile organic solvent;

[0015] 1-15% by weight of an oil soluble polymeric film-former;

[0016] 0.01-30% by weight of a silicon resin;

[0017] 0.01-20% by weight of a filler;

[0018] and wherein all percents are related to the total weight of thecosmetic composition.

[0019] The stable mixture with an acrylate copolymer, a hydrocarbonsolvent, an emulsifier and water preferably contains 0.01-30% by weightof a film-forming agent on the basis of an acrylate copolymer or acrylicor methacrylic acid or an ester of acrylic or methacrylic acid, whichagent is emulsifiable with water; 0.01-35% by weight of an aliphatichydrocarbon solvent or a volatile silicone derivate, both of which arenot miscible with water and are emulsifiable with water-basedingredients and/or with ingredients on the basis of organic solvents inthe presence of an emulsifier; 0.01-2% by weight of a non-ionicemulsifier; and 0.1-30% by weight of water; and wherein the compositionhas the structure of a gel. All percents are related to the total weightof the cosmetic product.

[0020] Advantageously, alkoxylated alcohols, ethoxylated alcohols,polyglycerine esters and mixtures thereof can be used as emulsifier. Thesaid substances are non-ionic emulsifiers which contain e.g. a polyolgroup, a polyalkylglycol ether group or a combination thereof, such ase.g. addition products of 2-30 mole ethylene oxide to linear fattyalcohols having 8-22 carbon atoms and to fatty acids having 12-22 carbonatoms, as hydrophillic group. The said substances further includepolyglycerine esters, such as e.g. polyglycerine ricinoleate orpolyglycerine poly-12 hydroxystearate, and mixtures of these differentsubstance classes.

[0021] A preferred emulsifier is, for example, Laureth-20, Laureth-23,Oleth-20, Steareth-20, Steareth-50, Ceteareth-20, Ceteareth-30.

[0022] An ethyl acrylate/methyl methacrylate copolymer can be used asacrylate copolymer, for example.

[0023] It is particularly preferred that the film-forming agent be anethyl acrylate/methyl methacrylate copolymer in which the ratio of ethylacrylate units to methyl methacrylate units in the polymer is in therange of 7.5-8.5:1.8-2.3.

[0024] Acrylic acid, methacrylic acid or their esters also can be used(here called “acrylate derivates”).

[0025] A preferred range for the acrylate copolymer in the gel isbetween 0.5 and 46% by weight, particularly 0.25 to 23% by weightrelated to the total weight of the cosmetic product.

[0026] Isoparaffins e.g. isododecane, pentane, hexane, decane or specialpetroleum distillates etc. are preferably used as aliphatic hydrocarbonsolvent which is not miscible with water are preferred in the stablemixture with gel structure. Isododecane is special preferred.

[0027] A preferred range for the aliphatic hydrocarbon solvent or thevolatile silicone derivate in the stable mixture with the gel structureis between 55 and 90% by weight, related to the total weight of thecosmetic product.

[0028] Advantageously, a compound such as cyclopentasiloxane ortrimethylsiloxysilicate or a mixture thereof can be used as volatilesilicone derivate. Dimethicone or trimethylsiloxysilicate are preferredsilicone derivatives.

[0029] A preferred silicone derivate is e.g. deca-, methyl-, cyclo-,penta-, siloxy-, siloxane (Silicone SS4230).

[0030] The preferred water content is in the range of 1.0 to 40% byweight, particularly 1.0 to 20% by weight.

[0031] A preferred wax is a natural plant wax, animal wax, natural andsynthetic mineral wax and synthetic wax. The waxes may be selected amongcarnauba wax, candelilla wax, ozokerite, beeswax, montan wax, wool wax,ceresine, micro-waxes, paraffin waxes, petrolatum, silicone,polyethyleneglycol(ester) waxes.

[0032] Pigments, pigment mixtures or powders with a pigment-like effect,also including those with a pearl-gloss effect, may include, forexample, iron oxides, aluminum silicates such as ochre, titanium(di)oxide, mica, kaolin, manganese containing clays such as umber andred bole, calcium carbonate, French chalk, mica-titanium oxide,mica-titanium oxide-iron oxide, bismuth oxychloride, nylon beads,ceramic beads, expanded and non-expanded synthetic polymer powders,powdery natural organic compounds such as milled solid algae, milledplant parts, encapsulated and non-encapsulated cereal starches andmica-titanium oxide-organic dye and other surface-treated particles.

[0033] A preferred volatile organic solvent is a hydrocarbon solvent asdescribed above or a volatile silicone derivate.

[0034] A preferred soluble polymeric film-forming agent is selected frome.g. copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone and long-chain-olefines such asPVP/Eicosane Copolymer.

[0035] Fillers are for example talc, starch (treated or untreated),kaolin and polyamid; also certain auxiliary substances can be used suchas water, preservatives, vitamins, colorings, radical scavengers,softeners, moisture-retaining substances, fragrances, polyols, pH valueregulators, amino acids, proteins, polar and nonpolar oils, sequesteringagents, adhesives.

[0036] The stable mixture with acrylate copolymer, hydrocarbon solvent,emulsifier and water is a gel which is particularly characterized inthat a combination of solvent and film-forming agent is obtained whichis stable in the cosmetic formulation. Such a stable combination havingthe characteristics of a gel was surprising for those skilled in theart, and it permits the manufacture of cosmetic products, such as theproducts of the invention, which are particularly elastic and soft. Forexample, in the case of an ethyl acrylate/methyl methacrylate copolymer,the elasticity can be increased 4- to 5-fold compared to the elasticityof the film-forming agent used.

[0037] The elasticity was determined using the strip test method, whichis carried out as follows:

[0038] The measurement of length of an elastic film made from a polymerhas been carried out. Two separate films A and B of about 150 ?m (6.0mil) thick have been poured on the non-sticky surface with a Birdapplicator. Film A consists of an aqueous acrylate copolymer (AcrylatesCopolymer:Water about 50:50, emulsifier), and film B consists of 50%components of film A and 50% isododecane. In 24 hours, at 25° C., thespecimens were prepared by cutting the strips of about 50×25 mm. One endof the strip was attached to a ruler. The specimen was tested bystretching the strip without breaking in the direction of the end of theruler. The result for film A was 101 mm, for film B 406 mm.

[0039] The softness of the composition after applying it to the skin orto an even surface is also considerably higher than that of the originalfilm-forming agent. This improves the feeling, which plays a centralrole in the selection of a product by the user.

[0040] The manufacture of the stable mixture with an acrylate copolymer,hydrocarbon solvent, emulsifier and water consists in that a mixture ofa film-forming agent on the basis of an acrylate copolymer or acrylatederivate, water and a non-ionic emulsifier is heated up to a temperaturein the range of 45-50° C.; at this temperature the obtained emulsion ismixed with a volatile aliphatic hydrocarbon solvent or a volatilesilicone derivate, wherein the solvent or the silicone derivate are notmiscible with water, but are emulsifiable with water-based ingredientsand/or with ingredients on the basis of organic solvents in the presenceof an emulsifier, and wherein a two-phase liquid system is obtainedafter homogenization at 1500-3000 rpm during 15-60 minutes until theorganic phase which is not miscible with water is completely distributedin the aqueous phase in the form of micro-droplets; and c) the mixtureis cooled down to 25-30° C. at a rate of 300 to 600 rpm until ahomogeneous gel is obtained.

[0041] After that the processing takes place with the other cosmeticauxiliary cosmetic substances and/or effective cosmetic substances inusual manner at temperatures of about 35 to 40° C.

[0042] This method is characterized by a strictly defined sequence ofsteps and an unusual temperature regime. It is only in this way that astable formulation having the above-mentioned advantages cansuccessfully be obtained.

[0043] The cosmetic product of the invention can be used for hairespecially for eyelashes (as mascara) and eyebrow color. Morespecifically, it can be used as a touch-up temporary hair colorant thatfully covers the gray spots and provides a prolonged wear. The typicaldisadvantage of the eyelash cosmetic including waterproof mascara of themarket is the unsatisfactory durability effect such as durability ofwater resistance and skin oil resistance. The cosmetic of the inventionprovides an improvement in water resistance for the all day wear over alonger period and satisfactory skin oil resistance.

[0044] In the use direction of decorative cosmetic, that means for lipcolor, cream blush, foundations, make-up, cream eye shadow, concealer,mascara, eye brown color etc. also a significant improvement will bereached with respect to known products of the market, both in wearresistance and water resistance for a longer period (up to 24 hours) andunder different environment conditions. Also an unpleasant tacky orsmearing feeling will not be present such as known for usual products ofthe market. The cosmetic of the invention does stay on under the showeror swimming or rain and shows a non-drying effect to the skin.

[0045] The invention will hereinafter be explained more precisely bymeans of examples which, however, do not constitute any limitation ofthe invention. All quantities are given in percent by weight.

EXAMPLE 1 Basic Gel

[0046] Ethyl acrylate/methyl methacrylate 24.5 Water 25.0 Laureth-20 0.3Isododecane 50.0

[0047] The copolymer is mixed with water and the emulsifier Laureth-20,and the mixture is heated up to 45 C. Isododecane is added, and thetemperature is increased to 50 C. while stirring. After thanhomogenization takes place at 2200 rpm for a time of 18 minutes in alaboratory vessel of 1000 ml volume.

[0048] Subsequently, the mixture is cooled down to 27 C. and stirred ata rate of 400 rpm for approx. 5 minutes.

EXAMPLE 2 Eyebrow Color

[0049] Carnauba Wax 4.9 Bees Wax 3.3 Castor Wax 1.4 Microcrystalline Wax5.0 PVP/Eicosane Copolymer 4.0 Pigments 6.0 Isododecane 38.5Disteardimoninium Hectorite 4.0 Isododecane 13.0 Propylene Carbonate 1.6Trimethylsiloxysilicate and 2.0 Decamethylcyclopentasiloxane Basic gelfrom Example 1 16 Preservatives (Parabens) 0.3

[0050] The wax phase was melt at 85° C. After that pigments are added tothe wax phase and homogenized. Isododecane was added with maintainingthe temperature at ca. 60° C. Clay has been pre-mix with Isododecane andadded to the batch. The remaining ingredients were added at ca. 40° C.and the mixture was homogenized. Carnauba Wax 5.1 Beeswax 4.0 Castor Wax1.9 Paraffin 6.0 PVP/Eicosane Copolymer 5.5 Propylparaben 0.2 Pigments8.0 Petroleum Distillates 45.0 Disteardimoninium Hectorite 3.0 PetroleumDistillates 12.0 Propylene Carbonate 1.2 Basic gel from Example 1 6.0Cylopentasiloxane (and) 2.1 Trimethylsiloxysilicate

[0051] The method of working was like Example 2.

COMPARATIVE EXAMPLE 4

[0052] The mascara of Example 3 (Product A) was tested for itswaterproof properties for consumer evolution in comparison withwaterproof products of the market with known brands (Product B “ . . .volume express WP” and product C“ . . . voluminous WP”). The rating by23 panelist took place on a scaling from 0 to 5; 0=worst rating, 5=bestrating. Product A Product B Product C Waterproof 4.4 3.7 3.4 Avoidanceof flaking 3.7 3.2 2.9 Avoidance of clumping 3.6 2.8 2.6 Overall comfortof the product 4.4 3.6 3.1 during wear

[0053] A significant improvement of product A (invention) was shown withan average of 15 to 30%.

EXAMPLE 5 Semi-matte Long Wearing Transfer-proof Lip Color A

[0054] Carnauba Wax 4.9 Bees Wax 3.3 Castor Wax 1.4 Microcrystalline Wax5.0 PVP/Eicosane Copolymer 4.0 Pigments 5.0 Isododecane 40.5Stearalkoninium Hectorite 4.0 Isododecane 13.0 Propylene Carbonate 1.6PPG-51/SMDI Copolymer 2.0 Basic gel of Example 1 16 Preservatives(Parabens) 0.3

[0055] The method of working was like Example 2.

EXAMPLE 6 Long-wearing Blush B

[0056] Carnauba Wax 4.9 Bees Wax 3.3 Castor Wax 1.4 Microcrystalline Wax5.0 PVP/Eicosane Copolymer 3.0 Pigments 5.0 Isododecane 39.5Disteardimoninium Hectorite 4.0 Isododecane 13.0 Propylene Carbonate 1.6Trimethylsiloxysilicate and 2.0 Decamethylcyclopentasiloxane Rice starch1.0 Basic gel of Example 1 16 Preservatives (Parabens) 0.3

[0057] The method of working was like Example 2.

COMPARATIVE EXAMPLE 7 Kiss Test

[0058] The lip color of example 5 were applied to the lips of 12panelists an allowed to set for 3 min. The panelists were asked to kisstheir hands and rate the samples in a scaling from 1 to 5 (1=notacceptable, 5=excellent) the transfer/wear. 10 of 12 panelists rated thelip color A by 5 in terms of “did not leave a trace of color”, 2panelists rated it by 4 “did leave a trace of color”.

COMPARATIVE EXAMPLE 8 Blush Test

[0059] The blush test was carried out similar as the kiss test by 12panelists after applying the blush of Example 6 on a cheek. Allpanelists rated the transfer resistance with score 5=excellent.

1. A water-resistant cosmetic gel, comprising: a stable mixture,comprising a water-emulsifiable, film-forming agent selected from one ormore of an acrylate copolymer or acrylic or methacrylic acid or an esterthereof, a water-immiscible aliphatic hydrocarbon solvent, a non-ionicemulsifier and water; a cosmetic wax; a rheology modifier; a pigmentphase, comprising mineral pigments, organic pigments, pearl pigments,surface-coated pigments and mixtures thereof; a volatile organicsolvent; an oil soluble polymeric film-former; a silicon resin; and afiller.
 2. The cosmetic gel of claim 1, wherein the stable mixture withan acrylate comprises 1-45% by weight of the film-forming agent on thebasis of an acrylate copolymer or acrylic or methacrylic acid or anester thereof which agent is emulsifiable with water.
 3. The cosmeticgel of claim 1, wherein the stable mixture comprises 0.01-35% by weightof an aliphatic hydrocarbon solvent or a volatile silicone derivate,both of which are not miscible with water and are emulsifiable withwater-based ingredients and/or with ingredients on the basis of organicsolvents in the presence of an emulsifier.
 4. The cosmetic gel of claim1, wherein the stable mixture comprises 0.1-2% by weight of a non-ionicemulsifier.
 5. The cosmetic gel of claim 1, wherein the stable mixturecomprises 1-30% by weight of water.
 6. The cosmetic gel of claim 1,wherein the emulsifier is chosen from the group consisting ofalkoxylated alcohols, ethoxylated alcohols, polyglyceryl esters andmixtures thereof.
 7. The cosmetic gel according to claim 1, wherein thefilm-forming agent is an acrylate copolymer.
 8. The cosmetic gel ofclaim 1, wherein the acrylate copolymer comprises an ethylacrylate/methyl methacrylate copolymer.
 9. The cosmetic gel of claim 1,wherein the film-forming agent is an ethyl acrylate/methyl methacrylatecopolymer in which the ratio of ethyl acrylate units to methylmethacrylate units in the polymer is in the range of 7.5-8.5:1.8-2.3.10. The cosmetic gel of claim 1, the gel having an elasticity that isfour to five times greater than elasticity of the film-forming agentused to make the gel.
 11. The cosmetic gel of claim 1, the gel having asoftness that is greater than that of the film-forming agent used tomake the gel.
 12. A lip coloring agent comprising the cosmetic gel ofclaim
 1. 13. A cream blush comprising the cosmetic gel of claim
 1. 14. Acosmetic foundation comprising the cosmetic gel of claim
 1. 15. Amake-up comprising the cosmetic gel of claim
 1. 16. A cream eyeshadowcomprising the cosmetic gel of claim
 1. 17. A concealer comprising thecosmetic gel of claim
 1. 18. A mascara comprising the cosmetic gel ofclaim
 1. 19. An eye cosmetic comprising the cosmetic gel of claim
 1. 20.A temporary eyelash hair coloring comprising the cosmetic gel ofclaim
 1. 21. A temporary eyebrow hair coloring comprising the cosmeticgel of claim
 1. 22. A cosmetic gel comprising a stable mixturecomprising ethyl acrylate and methyl methacrylate in a concentration ofabout 24.5% by weight of the gel and isododecane in a concentration ofabout 50% by weight of the gel.
 23. An eyebrow color cosmetic,comprising: a mixture comprising Carnauba wax, beeswax, castor waxmicrocrystalline wax and PVP/Eicosane copolymer; pigment in aconcentration of about 6% of the cosmetic; Isododecane, disteardimoniumhectorite, and propylene carbonate; trimethylsiloxysilicate anddecamethylcyclopentasiloxane; and gel of claim
 1. 24. A mascara,comprising: Carnauba wax, beeswax, castor oil, paraffin, PVP/Eicosanecopolymer and propylparaben; pigment in a concentration of 8% of themascara; petroleum distillates in a concentration of 45%; and the gel ofclaim
 1. 25. A method for imparting elasticity and softness to acosmetic, comprising: providing a film-forming agent comprising anacrylate copolymer or acrylate derivative and a non-ionic emulsifier toform a mixture; heating the mixture to a temperature of 45 to 50 degreesCentigrade to form an emulsion; mixing the emulsion with a volatilealiphatic hydrocarbon solvent or a volatile silicone derivate andhomogenizing to form a two-phase liquid system; cooling the two-phaseliquid system with rapid mixing to form a homogeneous gel; and mixingthe gel with a cosmetic formulation to soften and increase elasticity ofthe cosmetic formulation.